The Good Holiday.

 

So, you still want more? Here you go. Together with a host of other contributors, I now share responsible tourism stories from around the world on THE GOOD HOLIDAY. Here's how Daréll Lourens, the passionate film-maker behind the blog, describes the project:

TGH produces films in places that make an extra effort to involve and empower local communities. Our photographers take pictures in parts around the world that amaze with natural beauty and our writers string together sentences about destinations that inspire an inner knowledge that living well creates more abundance than living rich.

Do I need to say more?

Ibn Tulun Mosque.

One of the oldest and also largest mosques in Cairo, Ibn Tulun is another wonderful place to get away from the hustle and bustle of the city and unwind in its simple splendour. With its many arches and columns it almost feels as if Ibn Tulun boasts several rooms, while in reality it's all one magnificent space that flows seamlessly between the sunlit courtyard and the surrounding building. However, Ibn Tulun is probably best know for its unique minaret with a spiral staircase running around the tower all the way up to the top from where you have unparalleled vies of Islamic Cairo and beyond. By the way, Ibn Tulun is also the mosque featured on the 5 EGP note, so this is the perfect spot to start your tour through all Cairo mosques as represented on the 10, 20, 50, 100 and 200 LE notes.

The Nile by Dahabiya.

It's definitely one of the highlight activities you can do in Egypt and shouldn't be missed. A Nile cruise from Luxor to Aswan can't be beat if you have a penchant for peace, quiet and travel on water. And while you're at it, give the large cruise ships that basically are floating hotels a miss and opt for a wind-powered Dahabiya instead. These beautiful and aesthetic boats accommodate only a maximum of 12 people in six comfy cabins, making this a most intimate experience. When you wake up in the morning you hear the chatter of birds and the gurgling of water as the Dahabiya glides through the tranquil Nile. At the same time, the small crew is already busy preparing stacks of crepes and fresh coffee. So, rush up the stairs to the communal breakfast table to greet your fellow passengers and soak in the scenery. It's all green fields and palm trees with the desert as a contrasting backdrop and the blue Nile to match, dotted with the occasional donkey or village kids or group of fishermen. During the day, there are plenty of excursions to temples and other sights that you can join, but the best part is always returning to the boat and being welcomed by the steward with cold a hibiscus drink and refreshing towels. After lunch, you will have ample time for a nap in one of the cosy nooks around the ship equipped with rugs and cushions and of course the amazing view out into the green, blue and ochre of Upper Egypt. If you're not careful, you might sleep all the way until dinner, which would of course be a shame, as you would miss both the lovingly prepared afternoon tea as well as the golden afternoon sun, best enjoyed with a sundowner to match.

http://www.lazulinil.com/

Kom El Dikka Agri Lodge.

Sometimes you just want to get out of the city with friends and family for a leisurely weekend in the countryside, not too close to town, yet not too far away either. If this is your craving, Kom El Dikka agrilodge in Fayoum is your best bet. Situated at the edge of picturesque Tunis Village between the settlement and the fields, their North House offers all you need for a great self-catering holiday. The beautiful, clean and spacious house with all amenities, including huge bathrooms and a generous open-plan kitchen, easily sleeps 6 with the option to add more people in the living room. Children can roam around freely on the property while grown-ups doze in the shade on the super-soft lawn that surrounds the house. Meals are best enjoyed on the terrace just outside the front door, from which the view goes out to the fields and the desert beyond. Take a stroll down to the lake and back through the village around sunset, then sit down and relax with a cold drink while the fire is lit and preps for a delicious BBQ are under way. Bliss.

https://www.facebook.com/komeldikkaagrilodge

Taziry Ecolodge.

Sometimes only Siwa is remote enough if you need to get away from it all and escape the mayhem of the big city. And if you want to give even the mild bustle of Siwa town a miss, look no further than Taziry Ecolodge. Around the corner from the more upmarket Adrere Amellal, this is a most charming mud-brick retreat, perfect to spend a couple of nights on the doorstep of the desert. Literally. The various guest rooms, dining rooms and lounges are scattered on the foot of a towering rock formation. You can have dinner under the stars and breakfast with a splendid lake view. Food is of exceptional quality and taste, a rare find in the Egyptian culinary scene. Feast on tender beef with dates and caramelized onions or succulent chicken basted with pomegranate molasses. A huge, deep pool invites guests for a cooling dip in the afternoon heat or after returning from an excursion to town or into the Great Sand Sea. Grab a book, make yourself at home on one of the palm-shaded daybeds and relax. Rooms are spacious and comfy and kept in a natural colour palette, all decorated with beautiful Siwan crafts. It might be wise to bring a torch as Taziry is only lit by candles and lanterns, which creates a magic atmosphere fit for Arabian Nights. Thanks to solar water heaters, you don't have to do without a hot morning shower, though. All good.

http://taziry.com

Siwa Oasis.

Hurry before it gets too hot during the summer months and escape to the beautiful Siwa oasis. We find it is the number one, must-see destination in Egypt. Forget about the Pyramids or the Red Sea, Siwa is where the magic happens. Let's face it, much of the beauty of Siwa is thanks to its remote location close to the Libyan border, so it managed to escape mass tourism well into the 21st century. Whether you are on a budget or want a deluxe retreat of sorts, Siwa caters to a diverse clientele from students to ambassadors. When in Siwa, make sure you explore the exquisite souvenir shops around the ancient fort in the centre of Siwa town full of rugs and scarves and salt lantern. Plus, don't forget to buy a glass of the amazing organic olive jam. Then, make your way to Cleopatra's Bath, a natural pool amidst a lush palm grove and take a cooling dip in the oxygen-rich water. Around the pool an assortment of funky little cafés and eateries has sprung up where you can have a fresh juice or light snack before you continue the journey. It's a bit like Goa circa 1970, sans the crowds. The true treasures of Siwa can however be found outside the actual oasis when you take a tour into the great sand sea that starts right at Siwa's doorstep. Marvel at the towering dunes and tranquil valleys strewn with shells that bear testimony to the fact that this once was an ocean floor. There's even a freshwater lake bordered by green reed that suddenly emerges like a mirage from the desert. Jump right in, it's oh-so refreshing. On the way back, ask your guide for some sweet tea with mint to be enjoyed while the sun disappears and night falls around you. This is as close to the cliché of Arabian Nights as it gets.

http://en.egypt.travel/city/index/siwa-oasis

A Stroll through G.S.C.

Gone are the times that smartly dressed gentlemen gathered here for a match of cricket, ladies lingered for a game of bridge, and Egypt's young elite flocked to the pool to exercise and gossip. Only some of the buildings still bear testimony to its colonial past as the Khedivial Sporting Club of the 1880s, one of them being the lovely red-bricked manager's cottage. The Gezira Sporting Club in Zamalek, short The Club, might have lost most of it's splendour and grandeur, but it still is a pleasant place for an extended stroll on a Saturday afternoon without the traffic, noise and hawkers that are a staple in most other parts of town. The good news is, it's now a rather democratic place, also granting access to us ordinary people as long as we can fork out the LE100 entrance fee. If you find the right entrance, though, it's only LE5. The Club is especially popular with families and while the young ones practise soccer or tennis, mummies and daddies meet over coffee and shish kebab in one of the many food outlets. Going with the times, there's a veritable food court now that can compete with most shopping malls around (if that's what you like), boasting even a miniature McDonalds branch and many an ice cream parlour.

Cairo by Boat.

If you feel that Cairo is too dusty and noisy and overcrowded, try to change your perspective and take to the water. If you board one of the water buses that depart in front of Maspero TV tower in Downtown you slowly but surely leave all the buzz behind and crumbling buildings give way to a sometimes semi-urban, sometimes outright bucolic setting with banana plantations, donkeys grazing lazily next to the fields and the odd fisherman trying his luck in the muddy waters of the river Nile. You can for example take the 1.5 hour trip to Al Kanater, the barrages that mark the point where the Nile fans out into the delta. It used to be a favourite weekend trip of Cairenes from all walks of life, especially families with young kids. Judging from the buildings, the areas heyday probably was in the  1960s. Now, it's all rather derelict but the barrages themselves are still as impressive as they must have been when they were built in the early 20th century. Worth the journey! However, the best part about this excursion on the water is the return trip to Cairo in the soft afternoon light. As the boat glides on the glistening water under soaring bridges and the buildings turn into elegant silhouettes, Cairo is at its most calm and of an almost austere beauty.

Sekem Farm Hotel.

The perfect spot to unwind in a bucolic setting on the fringes of Cairo - and a very, very hidden gem, so no tourists guaranteed - is the simple but charming Sekem Farm Hotel in Belbeis. During your approach you leave behind the chaos of the big city and slowly but surely factories and housing estates give way to orchards, irrigation channels and mud brick walls, and you know it's the weekend. Located on the sprawling Sekem farm, where the Egyptian organic farming company of the same name grows all sorts of fresh produce for the capitals kitchens and restaurants, the hotel boasts cosy and airy rooms on two floors, connected by a vast terrace that runs around the building. Great for morning yoga or sundowner contemplation. It's all bright walls and wood and glass and freedom from kitsch and clutter. Plus, all rooms look out to the fields and lawns and trees and make for a pleasant change of scenery, complete with the sounds of country life to match. Think birds and the wind going through the trees at night. And if that's not enough twittering for you and you can't bear being disconnected for a couple of days, there even is free wifi. However, we suggest you rather go for a stroll amongst the fields and along tree-lined alleys and pop into the small organic store just around the corner to buy some goodies to remind you of this peaceful place back home in the city. Then, sit down for lunch and feast on fresh farm food made from local and seasonal ingredients. Bliss!

http://www.sekem.com/node/176

Black & White Deserts.

One of the most fascinating landscapes of Egypt are the Black and White Deserts on the doorstep of the Bahareya Oasis, approximately five hours by car from Cairo. That's if you are lucky and traffic is not too bad. From extinct volcanoes to weird mushroom-shaped limestone formations, from gravel-covered plains to rolling sand dunes, it's all here, combined to a grand playground of rocks and sand. The best time to visit is either spring or autumn so you avoid the summer heat, yet it won't be freezing cold at night. Build your camp under the stars with a few cushions and thick blankets, light a fire and enjoy the starlit night. Chances are, you will be visited by desert foxes that seem to be quite used to human visitors so they are extremely curious and come very close on the hunt for food. Apart from that there's not much to do here and although most of the area is designated as National Park it's hard to get any information. But then, that gives you more time to just sit for hours on end and contemplate the view, which more often than not is simply spectacular. It's a landscape that has been like this for eons and will most probably outlive mankind. Seldom have we felt so small and insignificant. It's soothing.

Unfortunately, we can't really recommend a tour operator for this destination. From our own experience and what we hear from friends, most are not very professional and you learn next to nothing about the environment and landscape you visit. Sad story. Let us know once you've found a guide you think does a good job!

Ezbet Tunis.

This close to Cairo, just 2 hours by car in good traffic conditions from the capital of an 80+ million country, you would expect a more developed and posh weekend get-away. But then, Egypt is not your average country and time and again manages to surprise. Hence, Ezbet Tunis in the otherwise dreadful and garbage-littered Fayoum oasis is not an upper-class haunt with boutique art galleries and coffee chains but a charming, bucolic hamlet where donkeys graze lazily on the side of the (dirt) road and the occasional sign directs you to a pottery barn or artist shack. The village on the shores of Lake Qaroun (unfortunately separated from the same by the main road) is famous for its beautiful pottery that comes in myriad shapes and designs from mugs depicting scenes from country life to super-sized bowls with floral and abstract ornaments. It's hard to resist the urge to get into a spending spree here, but then Tunis pottery is quite affordable compared to what you would pay for the same objects in Cairo outlets. After an afternoon shop-hopping through the village, we prefer to retreat to the wonderful garden at Palm Shadow guesthouse. This well-maintained property lies smack-bang in the heart of it all and is a great base to explore the area, especially if you decide halfway through dinner that you should've bought that clay pot earlier... They offer great accommodation in fully-furnished apartments sleeping four or a villa for 8. Units come with a well-equipped kitchen and balcony looking out onto the garden and with a view of the lake in the distance.

http://fayoum-palmshadow.blogspot.com

A Weekend in Gouna.

You can call it fake and disneylandish and posh as much as you like, but you still have to admit that it's one of the most pleasant cities in the country. With it's tree-lined avenues, immaculate green spaces and well-tended public areas El Gouna is a welcome distraction from the usual urban chaos in most other Egyptian towns. Designed and built by the famously rich Sawiris family as their own version of Utopia from the 1990s onwards El Gouna now boasts many new developments as well as a well-established »old« part with a huge number of restaurants, shops and other amenities including two outposts of local and international universities. Though academic fame might be a long time coming, the town definitely has become the preferred Red Sea retreat for Egypt's moneyed elite, which can be seen sporting the latest fashion and flashy limousines on weekends and during holidays. Thanks to it's location by the sea and myriad canals that criss-cross the city water is never far, which adds much to Gouna's appeal. Water sports are a major drawcard during summer if the many diving schools, surf camps and yachts moored at the marina are anything to go by. Come evening, the crowds return home to their villas or to meet friends and family at their favourite local restaurant while the sun disappears in the ocean. And because all is as liberal as it gets in Egypt here, a cold bottle of beer or a glass of cold white are never far. You might be forgiven for thinking you've stepped into your very own Truman Show. Enjoy it while you can.

http://www.elgouna.com

South Red Sea.

The moment you head anywhere South of Hurghada you invariably feel somewhat off the beaten track. Yes, getting here is more difficult than reaching places at the Northern Red Sea coast, unless you fly to Marsa Alam that is. But less people, smaller towns and some of Egypt's best diving spots make this part of the country such an intriguing destination. We like to go to Utopia Beach Club just outside the town of Queseer for its laid-back attitude, super-friendly staff and a great SSI diving centre. The instructors know the reefs here like the backs of their hands and are always keen to help and point out good spots. It's perfect for everyone who has only recently become addicted by diving, as the Utopia house reef starts right at the beach so you won't have to go far for rich marine life and to gain some diving experience. That being said, there's plenty of spots and tours to reefs further afield to also keep seasoned diving aficionados happy for days or even weeks. After a day in, on and by the water, sit back with a cold beer and watch the sun disappear behind the rugged mountain range that frames the setting to dramatic effect.

http://www.utopiabeachclub.com/

The Luxor Hilton.

It doesn't happen often that we find ourselves in a hotel or lodge where we fail to identify a number of design errors, service inadequacies or similar downsides the moment we enter the place. At the Luxor Hilton, however, even at second and third glance everything is and remains impeccable. From the wonderful contemporary arabesque ornaments that adorn walls and doors to the jaw-dropping pool area with its view over to the orchards and mountains of the West Bank, from the delicious food to the many chill-out nooks and resting spots, this is as close as it gets to informal luxury. When you return from a visit to one of the areas many pharaonic sights, temples and necropoles out in the sweltering desert heat, the sleek, modern architecture and leafy gardens with many a water feature are a soothing treat. Find a spot by the Nile or pool, order a fresh lemon juice and take in the splendour of the place. It's within walking distance to Karnak temple and the Luxor Museum and the super-friendly staff will happily give you directions - or organise transport if you are not inclined to attempt a small hike. Everyone here from gardeners to bell captain has at least basic command of English, which we found quite impressive and  would like to think it's testimony to a business operation that takes its employees and their training seriously. What can we say, it's perfect.

http://www3.hilton.com/en/hotels/egypt/hilton-luxor-resort-and-spa-LUXHITW/index.html

Al Tarfa Desert Sanctuary.

If secret gardens to stroll around and lounging in shaded, breezy spots with a cold drink are your thing, we suggest a trip to Al Tarfa in the beautiful Dakhla Oasis asap. At the fringes of this lush, bucolic island in the dessert, with donkey carts rumbling past on sandy tracks and cows grazing in the fields, this special lodge combines rustic country life with the small luxurious of an up-market eco retreat. From breakfast by the pool to lunch in the garden next to a gurgling stream to dinner under the stars, it's the meals that structure your day here rather than your watch. In between, the friendly and helpful but pleasantly unobtrusive team will arrange trips for you to some of the magnificent sights in the area, such as the amazing old town of Al Qasr with its intricate labyrinth of mud-brick houses. Our favourite spot, however, is the extremely comfy couch under a pair of lanterns from which the view goes out towards the caramel-coloured mountains in the distance, which provide a stark contrast to the lush greenery of the oasis below.

http://altarfa.net

Gianaclis Winery Tour.

It took us a while to find the right contact and manage to arrange for a tour, but manage we did and we're glad we gave it the required amount of extra effort. A winery tour to Gianaclis, one of only two estates in Egypt, is definitely one of the best day trips from Cairo you can possibly imagine. Early in the morning at 8am we were picked up by a luxurious mini-bus in Zamalek and ferried off to somewhere so deep in the Nile delta we probably wouldn't find the way ourselves if we tried to. Behind high and nondescript walls we were suddenly greeted by a state-of-the-art wine production facility, a charming tasting room with breezy outside terrace, and winemaker Sebastien and his team who welcomed us with a broad smile and a small breakfast to start the day. We then went on to a tour of the production process including a vast array of gleaming stainless steel containers as well as their special cellar with French oak barrels for special edition wines. Afterwards, the tasting started with a sip of pink bubbly for an aperitif and continued with a light white to accompany a selection of fresh salads. The BBQ delicacies to follow were matched by two different red wines, including their Ayam Special Edition in generous amounts. Accordingly, after four hours of tour and tasting we were all merrily exhausted from all the good wine and food and not few of us fell asleep almost instantaneously on the way back to Cairo.

To book your tour, inquire with Carmen at carmen.anis[at]alahrambeverages.com

http://gianacliswines.com

Upper Egypt by Sleeper Train.

What better way to start a weekend get-away with a leisurely ride on the train rather than a rush-hour tour by car? Take the metro to Giza station, walk a few metres to the platform for long-distance trains and wait for the evening service to Aswan. We were shocked at first about the condition of trains passing through the station and never sure which one would be ours. Fortunately, the rail staff were super friendly and prevented us from boarding one of the overcrowded trains, which many travellers found their way into trough the window. The actual sleeper train, however, was rather comfy and almost on time. We hoisted our luggage into our private compartment, closed the door and felt blissfully insulated from the brouhaha outside. After a dinner of carbohydrates of different sorts (lentils, rice, potatoes... well, you might want to bring your own) we soon fell asleep in beds equipped with fresh linen and fluffy pillows. Then, after a good night's rest, came the best part of the journey: walking up in the morning to a panorama of green fields dotted with donkeys and birds, palm trees full of dates and the occasional village to match. We immediately knew we were in for some peace and quiet and relaxation far from the hustle and bustle of Cairo.

Tickets are US$60 per person one way (incl. dinner and breakfast) can be booked online at

http://e7gezly.com/sleepingtrains/

Alexandria Cecil.

Granted, it's all faded grandeur and the flamboyant characters of Durrell's Alexandria Quartet have long checked out of this most famous of Alexandria hotels, but it still makes for a splendid backdrop to a romantic weekend retreat. The only thing ancient here is probably the elevator with its wrought iron grille, complete with lift boy (well, that one has aged a bit, too). Make sure you get a sea-facing room on one of the upper floors (i.e. far from traffic on the Corniche below), move a cosy armchair as close to the open window as possible and enjoy the sweeping vistas over to the fort and out to the sea. The Cecil is at its best in the morning when guests flock to the airy ground-level restaurant Le Jardin for an extended breakfast of croissants, pastry and fresh fruit. This is French territory after all. The only thing completely out of place is the Chinese restaurant, which occupies the rooftop terrace, potentially the jewel in the crown for a hotel with such a marvellous location. Alas, not only is the view from the restaurant obscured by red plastic sheeting but both the interior design and the food are rather sub-standard, too. So you better head out for dinner and dream of the heavenly breakfast treats instead.

http://www.sofitel.com/gb/hotel-1726-sofitel-cecil-alexandria/index.shtml

Auberge du Lac.

It's not the most stunning of locations and it's not the most amazing place to stay in Egypt, but the Helnan Auberge Fayoum, aka the Auberge du Lac, makes for a pleasant weekend retreat if you want to get out of the big city. Especially if you want to escape the expat crowd for a change, the Auberge is a great spot, as it's mostly frequented by affluent Egyptian families lounging around the huge pool. So, do it like the locals do, grab a beach towel, find a stretcher by the pool and go for a dip. Then, have a cold drink, lean back and enjoy the lake view with a good book. You could also attempt to have a swim in the vast lake itself but we weren't able to establish whether or not that is a good idea. If you are not of the adventurous kind, just soak in the fresh breeze and savour the beautiful sight of waves crashing against the quay wall and dying in a big splash. Food is basic but honest Egyptian and international fare and very affordable, as are the drinks. It's all very unpretentious but with a hint of past grandeur. After all, this once was the hunting lodge of king Farouk and deer-themed chandeliers still grace the entrance hall and lounge.

http://www.helnan.com/HelnanAubergeHotel=_6=-110.htm

First Cataract by Boat.

On a weekend escape from Cairo, Upper Egypt seems like a bucolic idyll of sorts. Although Aswan proper is for the most part your usual Egyptian town, you feel like in a completely different country once you've set sails for the West bank and the islands and islets around the First Cataract. Organise yourself a boat (motorized, feluccas won't get you anywhere near the cataract) from any of the small cruise businesses in town and just moments after departure you glide past reed-fringed shorelines, towering rocks and even the occasional beach. It's a bit like Stockholm on the Nile, minus the hipsters. There's plenty of bird life to be spotted, so bring your binoculars. Even if you are not a seasoned bird watcher or even twitcher, you'll be amazed about the abundance of different types of airborne creatures that hover above or hide in the undergrowth. Come evening, make sure you have a mint tea boiling and a shisha bubbling to get the most out of this chill-out paradise. While the sun sets and the city puts on its blinking evening attire, you wish you could just fall asleep and be carried away through the night.