Cairo by Boat.

If you feel that Cairo is too dusty and noisy and overcrowded, try to change your perspective and take to the water. If you board one of the water buses that depart in front of Maspero TV tower in Downtown you slowly but surely leave all the buzz behind and crumbling buildings give way to a sometimes semi-urban, sometimes outright bucolic setting with banana plantations, donkeys grazing lazily next to the fields and the odd fisherman trying his luck in the muddy waters of the river Nile. You can for example take the 1.5 hour trip to Al Kanater, the barrages that mark the point where the Nile fans out into the delta. It used to be a favourite weekend trip of Cairenes from all walks of life, especially families with young kids. Judging from the buildings, the areas heyday probably was in the  1960s. Now, it's all rather derelict but the barrages themselves are still as impressive as they must have been when they were built in the early 20th century. Worth the journey! However, the best part about this excursion on the water is the return trip to Cairo in the soft afternoon light. As the boat glides on the glistening water under soaring bridges and the buildings turn into elegant silhouettes, Cairo is at its most calm and of an almost austere beauty.

Cairo Kitchen.

There's people who think that it's outright crazy to pay double or triple the price for something that can easily be had at a much lower cost a few block down the street. But then, these are probably people for whom food is all about affordability and taste. For us who also value attentive and friendly service, a homey atmosphere, beautiful design and clean tables, some savvy entrepreneurs invented Cairo Kitchen, the contemporary (and yes, somewhat posh) answer to Cairo's food carts that can be seen around town selling tamia, fool and grilled vegetables. Around town, four outlets welcome hungry guests with their signature mix of white-against-colour interiors and Mondrian-esque facades. Colourful light bulbs add to the quirky look and feel and you can easily pretend you've stepped into a never-ending summertime street festival. Charming! At the food counter you can choose between warm meals from molokheya to koshary and an array of salads, dips and appetizers, all served in rustic enamelware and oh-so delicious. Don't forget to try their great, bottomless juices and cordials! They also do deliveries (of course, this is Cairo!) and cater for smaller and larger functions.

Tired of eating out or ordering in? Thankfully, the guys behind Cairo Kitchen recently also developed a cookery book of the same name, wrapping Egypt's most beloved recipes into a gorgeous layout with pictures so heartbreakingly beautiful in its description of profane daily life in the city you might forget Cairo tends to look like a grey, Soviet-era nightmare way too often.

http://www.cairokitchen.com

Sekem Farm Hotel.

The perfect spot to unwind in a bucolic setting on the fringes of Cairo - and a very, very hidden gem, so no tourists guaranteed - is the simple but charming Sekem Farm Hotel in Belbeis. During your approach you leave behind the chaos of the big city and slowly but surely factories and housing estates give way to orchards, irrigation channels and mud brick walls, and you know it's the weekend. Located on the sprawling Sekem farm, where the Egyptian organic farming company of the same name grows all sorts of fresh produce for the capitals kitchens and restaurants, the hotel boasts cosy and airy rooms on two floors, connected by a vast terrace that runs around the building. Great for morning yoga or sundowner contemplation. It's all bright walls and wood and glass and freedom from kitsch and clutter. Plus, all rooms look out to the fields and lawns and trees and make for a pleasant change of scenery, complete with the sounds of country life to match. Think birds and the wind going through the trees at night. And if that's not enough twittering for you and you can't bear being disconnected for a couple of days, there even is free wifi. However, we suggest you rather go for a stroll amongst the fields and along tree-lined alleys and pop into the small organic store just around the corner to buy some goodies to remind you of this peaceful place back home in the city. Then, sit down for lunch and feast on fresh farm food made from local and seasonal ingredients. Bliss!

http://www.sekem.com/node/176

Black & White Deserts.

One of the most fascinating landscapes of Egypt are the Black and White Deserts on the doorstep of the Bahareya Oasis, approximately five hours by car from Cairo. That's if you are lucky and traffic is not too bad. From extinct volcanoes to weird mushroom-shaped limestone formations, from gravel-covered plains to rolling sand dunes, it's all here, combined to a grand playground of rocks and sand. The best time to visit is either spring or autumn so you avoid the summer heat, yet it won't be freezing cold at night. Build your camp under the stars with a few cushions and thick blankets, light a fire and enjoy the starlit night. Chances are, you will be visited by desert foxes that seem to be quite used to human visitors so they are extremely curious and come very close on the hunt for food. Apart from that there's not much to do here and although most of the area is designated as National Park it's hard to get any information. But then, that gives you more time to just sit for hours on end and contemplate the view, which more often than not is simply spectacular. It's a landscape that has been like this for eons and will most probably outlive mankind. Seldom have we felt so small and insignificant. It's soothing.

Unfortunately, we can't really recommend a tour operator for this destination. From our own experience and what we hear from friends, most are not very professional and you learn next to nothing about the environment and landscape you visit. Sad story. Let us know once you've found a guide you think does a good job!

Ezbet Tunis.

This close to Cairo, just 2 hours by car in good traffic conditions from the capital of an 80+ million country, you would expect a more developed and posh weekend get-away. But then, Egypt is not your average country and time and again manages to surprise. Hence, Ezbet Tunis in the otherwise dreadful and garbage-littered Fayoum oasis is not an upper-class haunt with boutique art galleries and coffee chains but a charming, bucolic hamlet where donkeys graze lazily on the side of the (dirt) road and the occasional sign directs you to a pottery barn or artist shack. The village on the shores of Lake Qaroun (unfortunately separated from the same by the main road) is famous for its beautiful pottery that comes in myriad shapes and designs from mugs depicting scenes from country life to super-sized bowls with floral and abstract ornaments. It's hard to resist the urge to get into a spending spree here, but then Tunis pottery is quite affordable compared to what you would pay for the same objects in Cairo outlets. After an afternoon shop-hopping through the village, we prefer to retreat to the wonderful garden at Palm Shadow guesthouse. This well-maintained property lies smack-bang in the heart of it all and is a great base to explore the area, especially if you decide halfway through dinner that you should've bought that clay pot earlier... They offer great accommodation in fully-furnished apartments sleeping four or a villa for 8. Units come with a well-equipped kitchen and balcony looking out onto the garden and with a view of the lake in the distance.

http://fayoum-palmshadow.blogspot.com

Taboula.

When in Cairo it's become one of our dearest weekend habits to aimlessly wander around Garden City and explore the grand avenues and little alleyways of this most charming of enclaves. After admiring the faded grandeur of the turn-of-the-century mansions and leafy gardens in sweet slumber, we end our outings at Taboula restaurant. While the brand has recently opened more branches in other upper class haunts around town, the Garden City mother ship is by far the most cosy and welcoming outlet. Plus, it's one of the few decent eateries you find in the area these days. It's proximity to the UK and US Embassies might have been a boon back in the days but road closures associated with these missions surely haven't helped much to stimulate business recently. However, the besieged location undoubtedly adds a bit of an adventurous feel for those who come here. Once inside, Taboula is like a warm, pastel-coloured bubble and anything that might happen outside seems far away. From our vantage point in one of the corner nooks furnished with comfy cushions we observe the regulars, a mix of local old money and expat youngsters, while smoking shisha and nipping on our super-sweet lemon juice. We always make sure to order a generous helping of the moreish Hummous Beiruti and a portion of the spicy potatoes. Whenever we feel like a full dinner, additional bowls of Mouhamara, Aleppo Olives and Eggplant Fettah do the trick. Not only do they keep us occupied for hours but they also leave us so full we have to add an evening stroll back home to Downtown to digest all the Lebanese goodness.

http://www.taboula-eg.com/

A Weekend in Gouna.

You can call it fake and disneylandish and posh as much as you like, but you still have to admit that it's one of the most pleasant cities in the country. With it's tree-lined avenues, immaculate green spaces and well-tended public areas El Gouna is a welcome distraction from the usual urban chaos in most other Egyptian towns. Designed and built by the famously rich Sawiris family as their own version of Utopia from the 1990s onwards El Gouna now boasts many new developments as well as a well-established »old« part with a huge number of restaurants, shops and other amenities including two outposts of local and international universities. Though academic fame might be a long time coming, the town definitely has become the preferred Red Sea retreat for Egypt's moneyed elite, which can be seen sporting the latest fashion and flashy limousines on weekends and during holidays. Thanks to it's location by the sea and myriad canals that criss-cross the city water is never far, which adds much to Gouna's appeal. Water sports are a major drawcard during summer if the many diving schools, surf camps and yachts moored at the marina are anything to go by. Come evening, the crowds return home to their villas or to meet friends and family at their favourite local restaurant while the sun disappears in the ocean. And because all is as liberal as it gets in Egypt here, a cold bottle of beer or a glass of cold white are never far. You might be forgiven for thinking you've stepped into your very own Truman Show. Enjoy it while you can.

http://www.elgouna.com