Asir Laymoun.

On of the most wonderful gifts of Egypt to the world, though its availability is sadly confined to Egypt and neighbouring countries for the most part, is fresh lemon juice. Known as Asir Laymoun in Arabic, it's made from a small, local variety of lemon that actually looks more like lime but doesn't have the distinct bright green colour of its sibling. To make the juice, lemons are simply cut in half and then frothed in a blender with some water and a dash of milk, then sweetened to taste with sugar or syrup. A version with mint leaves added before blending is both very common and super-tasty. In more upmarket establishments you can sweeten it yourself with syrup served on the side, but it's a lot of fun to simply try the lemon juice in as many places as possible and enjoy the nuanced differences in taste and texture. We especially love the Asir Laymoun at Taboula for its heavy lemon-and-mint aroma and sugary goodness.

A Stroll through G.S.C.

Gone are the times that smartly dressed gentlemen gathered here for a match of cricket, ladies lingered for a game of bridge, and Egypt's young elite flocked to the pool to exercise and gossip. Only some of the buildings still bear testimony to its colonial past as the Khedivial Sporting Club of the 1880s, one of them being the lovely red-bricked manager's cottage. The Gezira Sporting Club in Zamalek, short The Club, might have lost most of it's splendour and grandeur, but it still is a pleasant place for an extended stroll on a Saturday afternoon without the traffic, noise and hawkers that are a staple in most other parts of town. The good news is, it's now a rather democratic place, also granting access to us ordinary people as long as we can fork out the LE100 entrance fee. If you find the right entrance, though, it's only LE5. The Club is especially popular with families and while the young ones practise soccer or tennis, mummies and daddies meet over coffee and shish kebab in one of the many food outlets. Going with the times, there's a veritable food court now that can compete with most shopping malls around (if that's what you like), boasting even a miniature McDonalds branch and many an ice cream parlour.

Groppi.

It's one of those Downtown institutions that act as living reminder of Cairo's grand past as one of the cosmopolitan centres of a globalized world circa 1920. Occupying a chunk of prime property on beautiful Talaat Harb Square, Café Groppi welcomes its guests with an ornate entrance of wrought iron and large glass-and-wood doors that lead into the main hall, a cavernous space with huge windows, high ceilings and a splendid stone floor. Well, and this is unfortunately where the splendour ends. The coffee that's served here is decent but nothing to write home about and the cake display is very basic with even their modest Danishes not available most of the time. Given Groppi's status as one of the oldest cafés in Cairo with a name that even today manages to conjure up images of dapper gents and ladies meeting over high tea, you wonder why the owners don't capitalize more on this unique heritage. Still, it's a great spot to sit for a while and watch the crazy world pass by outside in the street. Bring a book and a camera and pretend you're Agatha Christie on a voyage of the Middle East.

Maison Thomas.

When the afternoon light comes shining in at the Maison Thomas Zamalek branch and the racing green interior gets that chic glow, you can for a moment or two forget the mayhem happening outside. An intriguing mix of an English country pub, a French bistro, and an Italian trattoria, Maison Thomas is a beloved Cairo classic and has been a mainstay of the capital's culinary scene ever since the golden 20s. Come here for a leisurely lunch of pizza and salad on the way from a meeting or on the way into a well-deserved weekend and watch the chefs working away at doughs and toppings behind the glass partition that separates the seating area with its bar stools and high tables from the kitchen. Their signature delivery boxes in natural brown with the restaurant's timeless logo printed on top are stacked high on the wall behind the kitchen and payment counters, so don't be surprised to see a stream of delivery boys darting in and out of the place to cart the hot pizzas to customers around town. Close your visit in style with an espresso and a helping of their heavenly tiramisu. Adds a silver lining to even the bleakest of days.

http://www.elmenus.com/cairo/restaurants/maison-thomas-1519

Cairo by Boat.

If you feel that Cairo is too dusty and noisy and overcrowded, try to change your perspective and take to the water. If you board one of the water buses that depart in front of Maspero TV tower in Downtown you slowly but surely leave all the buzz behind and crumbling buildings give way to a sometimes semi-urban, sometimes outright bucolic setting with banana plantations, donkeys grazing lazily next to the fields and the odd fisherman trying his luck in the muddy waters of the river Nile. You can for example take the 1.5 hour trip to Al Kanater, the barrages that mark the point where the Nile fans out into the delta. It used to be a favourite weekend trip of Cairenes from all walks of life, especially families with young kids. Judging from the buildings, the areas heyday probably was in the  1960s. Now, it's all rather derelict but the barrages themselves are still as impressive as they must have been when they were built in the early 20th century. Worth the journey! However, the best part about this excursion on the water is the return trip to Cairo in the soft afternoon light. As the boat glides on the glistening water under soaring bridges and the buildings turn into elegant silhouettes, Cairo is at its most calm and of an almost austere beauty.

Cairo Kitchen.

There's people who think that it's outright crazy to pay double or triple the price for something that can easily be had at a much lower cost a few block down the street. But then, these are probably people for whom food is all about affordability and taste. For us who also value attentive and friendly service, a homey atmosphere, beautiful design and clean tables, some savvy entrepreneurs invented Cairo Kitchen, the contemporary (and yes, somewhat posh) answer to Cairo's food carts that can be seen around town selling tamia, fool and grilled vegetables. Around town, four outlets welcome hungry guests with their signature mix of white-against-colour interiors and Mondrian-esque facades. Colourful light bulbs add to the quirky look and feel and you can easily pretend you've stepped into a never-ending summertime street festival. Charming! At the food counter you can choose between warm meals from molokheya to koshary and an array of salads, dips and appetizers, all served in rustic enamelware and oh-so delicious. Don't forget to try their great, bottomless juices and cordials! They also do deliveries (of course, this is Cairo!) and cater for smaller and larger functions.

Tired of eating out or ordering in? Thankfully, the guys behind Cairo Kitchen recently also developed a cookery book of the same name, wrapping Egypt's most beloved recipes into a gorgeous layout with pictures so heartbreakingly beautiful in its description of profane daily life in the city you might forget Cairo tends to look like a grey, Soviet-era nightmare way too often.

http://www.cairokitchen.com

Sekem Farm Hotel.

The perfect spot to unwind in a bucolic setting on the fringes of Cairo - and a very, very hidden gem, so no tourists guaranteed - is the simple but charming Sekem Farm Hotel in Belbeis. During your approach you leave behind the chaos of the big city and slowly but surely factories and housing estates give way to orchards, irrigation channels and mud brick walls, and you know it's the weekend. Located on the sprawling Sekem farm, where the Egyptian organic farming company of the same name grows all sorts of fresh produce for the capitals kitchens and restaurants, the hotel boasts cosy and airy rooms on two floors, connected by a vast terrace that runs around the building. Great for morning yoga or sundowner contemplation. It's all bright walls and wood and glass and freedom from kitsch and clutter. Plus, all rooms look out to the fields and lawns and trees and make for a pleasant change of scenery, complete with the sounds of country life to match. Think birds and the wind going through the trees at night. And if that's not enough twittering for you and you can't bear being disconnected for a couple of days, there even is free wifi. However, we suggest you rather go for a stroll amongst the fields and along tree-lined alleys and pop into the small organic store just around the corner to buy some goodies to remind you of this peaceful place back home in the city. Then, sit down for lunch and feast on fresh farm food made from local and seasonal ingredients. Bliss!

http://www.sekem.com/node/176