Friday, 30 August 2013

Diwan Bookstore.



How would we survive without the wonderful bookstore chain Diwan! At several locations around Cairo and Egypt, Diwan provides a sanctuary of peace and quiet amidst all the hustle and bustle. It's a definite fixture in our weekend excursions around Zamalek and we always find a good read or beautiful cookery book and of course the latest issue of the Guardian Weekly. It's mostly Arabic and English titles but Diwan also has a decent French section and the occasional German read. Plus, the stationery department is great if you need a last-minute gift (think sketch books, cards, folders and coasters with Arabesque patterns) when invited for dinner around the corner. They also serve good coffee, cake and some snacks in case you don't feel like returning to the real world just yet.

www.diwanegypt.com

Saturday, 17 August 2013

Upper Egypt by Sleeper Train.



What better way to start a weekend get-away with a leisurely ride on the train rather than a rush-hour tour by car? Take the metro to Giza station, walk a few metres to the platform for long-distance trains and wait for the evening service to Aswan. We were shocked at first about the condition of trains passing through the station and never sure which one would be ours. Fortunately, the rail staff were super friendly and prevented us from boarding one of the overcrowded trains, which many travellers found their way into trough the window. The actual sleeper train, however, was rather comfy and almost on time. We hoisted our luggage into our private compartment, closed the door and felt blissfully insulated from the brouhaha outside. After a dinner of carbohydrates of different sorts (lentils, rice, potatoes... well, you might want to bring your own) we soon fell asleep in beds equipped with fresh linen and fluffy pillows. Then, after a good night's rest, came the best part of the journey: walking up in the morning to a panorama of green fields dotted with donkeys and birds, palm trees full of dates and the occasional village to match. We immediately knew we were in for some peace and quiet and relaxation far from the hustle and bustle of Cairo.

Tickets are US$60 per person one way (incl. dinner and breakfast) can be booked online at
http://e7gezly.com/sleepingtrains/

Monday, 12 August 2013

AUC Downtown Campus & Bookstore.




Amidst all the faded glamour and crumbling facades in its neighbourhood the American University's downtown campus has long been a thriving beacon of beauty and excellence. That, however, was before the headquarters of the Middle East's premier educational institution were moved to new, shiny premises in New Cairo. Fortunately, the old campus with its moorish arches and mashrabiya panels is still open to the public and remains an oasis of green and calm in central Cairo, literally on the doorstep of the urban blight that is Tahrir Square. Come here on a Saturday morning for a leisurely stroll through the lush gardens and deserted hallways, take a peek at the splendid Oriental Hall and marvel at the many intricate details of this architectural masterpiece. Then, head to the AUC bookstore at the back of the building and browse to your heart's content through thousands of books spanning several languages and sections. It's easily one of the best and well-stocked bookstores in the country. Plus, the sleek wood and glass interior gives it a refreshing feel that is in stark contrast to the ornate decor of the rest of the campus. Let's hope it will still be open for a while. Entrance from Mohammed Mahmoud.

http://www.aucpress.com/t-aucbookstores.aspx

Saturday, 3 August 2013

Windsor Hotel Bar.



There's few places around Cairo that capture the charms of a bygone, cosmopolitan era in such a melancholic and authentic fashion like the bar at the Windsor Hotel. Tucked away in unassuming Alfi Bey St off the main 26 July thoroughfare, the Windsor is a true gem among the otherwise most unauthentically refurbished colonial-era hotels in the Egyptian capital (if they still exist in the first place). You might be forgiven for thinking the entire place has closed for business year ago and is by now completely defunct but nobody cared to close the door. Indeed, the few members of staff occupying their posts at various spots around the premises seem as lost as the odd tourist that finds his way into the Windsor. Once you have settled for a cosy armchair of your choice in the 1st-floor bar, however, lights flicker on, a distant radio magically jumps to live and a cold Stella comes your way almost instantaneously as if you have crossed a motion detector hidden somewhere in one of the antlers adorning the walls. Bring a few friends or a good book and enjoy some blue-hour bliss after a hard day's work. This is downtown Cairo at its best.

http://www.windsorcairo.com/

Monday, 29 July 2013

Alexandria Cecil.



Granted, it's all faded grandeur and the flamboyant characters of Durrell's Alexandria Quartet have long checked out of this most famous of Alexandria hotels, but it still makes for a splendid backdrop to a romantic weekend retreat. The only thing ancient here is probably the elevator with its wrought iron grille, complete with lift boy (well, that one has aged a bit, too). Make sure you get a sea-facing room on one of the upper floors (i.e. far from traffic on the Corniche below), move a cosy armchair as close to the open window as possible and enjoy the sweeping vistas over to the fort and out to the sea. The Cecil is at its best in the morning when guests flock to the airy ground-level restaurant Le Jardin for an extended breakfast of croissants, pastry and fresh fruit. This is French territory after all. The only thing completely out of place is the Chinese restaurant, which occupies the rooftop terrace, potentially the jewel in the crown for a hotel with such a marvellous location. Alas, not only is the view from the restaurant obscured by red plastic sheeting but both the interior design and the food are rather sub-standard, too. So you better head out for dinner and dream of the heavenly breakfast treats instead.

http://www.sofitel.com/gb/hotel-1726-sofitel-cecil-alexandria/index.shtml

Sunday, 14 July 2013

Auberge du Lac.



It's not the most stunning of locations and it's not the most amazing place to stay in Egypt, but the Helnan Auberge Fayoum, aka the Auberge du Lac, makes for a pleasant weekend retreat if you want to get out of the big city. Especially if you want to escape the expat crowd for a change, the Auberge is a great spot, as it's mostly frequented by affluent Egyptian families lounging around the huge pool. So, do it like the locals do, grab a beach towel, find a stretcher by the pool and go for a dip. Then, have a cold drink, lean back and enjoy the lake view with a good book. You could also attempt to have a swim in the vast lake itself but we weren't able to establish whether or not that is a good idea. If you are not of the adventurous kind, just soak in the fresh breeze and savour the beautiful sight of waves crashing against the quay wall and dying in a big splash. Food is basic but honest Egyptian and international fare and very affordable, as are the drinks. It's all very unpretentious but with a hint of past grandeur. After all, this once was the hunting lodge of king Farouk and deer-themed chandeliers still grace the entrance hall and lounge.

http://www.helnan.com/HelnanAubergeHotel=_6=-110.htm

Monday, 24 June 2013

Bibliotheca Alexandrina.



Amidst all the ancient monuments and desert destinations in Egypt the ultra-modern library of Alexandria makes for a refreshing change of scenery. It is THE perfect spot to enjoy peace and calm in Egypt's second city. It's been designed to resemble the rising sun that glides across the sea, radiating the light of knowledge through the world. Fitting the theme, it's covered in a hull of glass and steel glistening in the sun. On the insight, a gigantic wall of enormous concrete slabs together with dozens of columns that resemble lotus flowers rise high into the sky and support the prominent glass facade. In here it's all dark, polished floors, wooden shelves and muted light. While outside on the corniche traffic thunders past with the usual relentless ferocity, one feels completely insulated form the real world in the monastery-like, almost sacral silence. The huge library hall is divided into myriad sections across huge balconies that cascade down below sea level, so just grab a book, pick your spot of choice and drift away. There's even wireless Internet and the cartography section on the lowest level is great for armchair travelling. What's your next destination?

http://www.bibalex.org/Home/Default_EN.aspx