Black & White Deserts.

One of the most fascinating landscapes of Egypt are the Black and White Deserts on the doorstep of the Bahareya Oasis, approximately five hours by car from Cairo. That's if you are lucky and traffic is not too bad. From extinct volcanoes to weird mushroom-shaped limestone formations, from gravel-covered plains to rolling sand dunes, it's all here, combined to a grand playground of rocks and sand. The best time to visit is either spring or autumn so you avoid the summer heat, yet it won't be freezing cold at night. Build your camp under the stars with a few cushions and thick blankets, light a fire and enjoy the starlit night. Chances are, you will be visited by desert foxes that seem to be quite used to human visitors so they are extremely curious and come very close on the hunt for food. Apart from that there's not much to do here and although most of the area is designated as National Park it's hard to get any information. But then, that gives you more time to just sit for hours on end and contemplate the view, which more often than not is simply spectacular. It's a landscape that has been like this for eons and will most probably outlive mankind. Seldom have we felt so small and insignificant. It's soothing.

Unfortunately, we can't really recommend a tour operator for this destination. From our own experience and what we hear from friends, most are not very professional and you learn next to nothing about the environment and landscape you visit. Sad story. Let us know once you've found a guide you think does a good job!

Ezbet Tunis.

This close to Cairo, just 2 hours by car in good traffic conditions from the capital of an 80+ million country, you would expect a more developed and posh weekend get-away. But then, Egypt is not your average country and time and again manages to surprise. Hence, Ezbet Tunis in the otherwise dreadful and garbage-littered Fayoum oasis is not an upper-class haunt with boutique art galleries and coffee chains but a charming, bucolic hamlet where donkeys graze lazily on the side of the (dirt) road and the occasional sign directs you to a pottery barn or artist shack. The village on the shores of Lake Qaroun (unfortunately separated from the same by the main road) is famous for its beautiful pottery that comes in myriad shapes and designs from mugs depicting scenes from country life to super-sized bowls with floral and abstract ornaments. It's hard to resist the urge to get into a spending spree here, but then Tunis pottery is quite affordable compared to what you would pay for the same objects in Cairo outlets. After an afternoon shop-hopping through the village, we prefer to retreat to the wonderful garden at Palm Shadow guesthouse. This well-maintained property lies smack-bang in the heart of it all and is a great base to explore the area, especially if you decide halfway through dinner that you should've bought that clay pot earlier... They offer great accommodation in fully-furnished apartments sleeping four or a villa for 8. Units come with a well-equipped kitchen and balcony looking out onto the garden and with a view of the lake in the distance.

http://fayoum-palmshadow.blogspot.com

Taboula.

When in Cairo it's become one of our dearest weekend habits to aimlessly wander around Garden City and explore the grand avenues and little alleyways of this most charming of enclaves. After admiring the faded grandeur of the turn-of-the-century mansions and leafy gardens in sweet slumber, we end our outings at Taboula restaurant. While the brand has recently opened more branches in other upper class haunts around town, the Garden City mother ship is by far the most cosy and welcoming outlet. Plus, it's one of the few decent eateries you find in the area these days. It's proximity to the UK and US Embassies might have been a boon back in the days but road closures associated with these missions surely haven't helped much to stimulate business recently. However, the besieged location undoubtedly adds a bit of an adventurous feel for those who come here. Once inside, Taboula is like a warm, pastel-coloured bubble and anything that might happen outside seems far away. From our vantage point in one of the corner nooks furnished with comfy cushions we observe the regulars, a mix of local old money and expat youngsters, while smoking shisha and nipping on our super-sweet lemon juice. We always make sure to order a generous helping of the moreish Hummous Beiruti and a portion of the spicy potatoes. Whenever we feel like a full dinner, additional bowls of Mouhamara, Aleppo Olives and Eggplant Fettah do the trick. Not only do they keep us occupied for hours but they also leave us so full we have to add an evening stroll back home to Downtown to digest all the Lebanese goodness.

http://www.taboula-eg.com/

A Weekend in Gouna.

You can call it fake and disneylandish and posh as much as you like, but you still have to admit that it's one of the most pleasant cities in the country. With it's tree-lined avenues, immaculate green spaces and well-tended public areas El Gouna is a welcome distraction from the usual urban chaos in most other Egyptian towns. Designed and built by the famously rich Sawiris family as their own version of Utopia from the 1990s onwards El Gouna now boasts many new developments as well as a well-established »old« part with a huge number of restaurants, shops and other amenities including two outposts of local and international universities. Though academic fame might be a long time coming, the town definitely has become the preferred Red Sea retreat for Egypt's moneyed elite, which can be seen sporting the latest fashion and flashy limousines on weekends and during holidays. Thanks to it's location by the sea and myriad canals that criss-cross the city water is never far, which adds much to Gouna's appeal. Water sports are a major drawcard during summer if the many diving schools, surf camps and yachts moored at the marina are anything to go by. Come evening, the crowds return home to their villas or to meet friends and family at their favourite local restaurant while the sun disappears in the ocean. And because all is as liberal as it gets in Egypt here, a cold bottle of beer or a glass of cold white are never far. You might be forgiven for thinking you've stepped into your very own Truman Show. Enjoy it while you can.

http://www.elgouna.com

Simonds Bakery & Cafe.

Another one of those wonderful Downtown treasures, Simonds Bakery & Café has been delighting Cairenes with gorgeous sweets for over a century and still does so to great effect on the neighbourhood's coffee tables. Nobody quite manages to pack as many calories into so small a space as Simonds does with their slices of cake that come in all chocolatey hues from white to dark bordering on pitch black. Each piece is literally crowned with a cherry on top, which sometimes takes the form of a walnut or cluster of gold, adding another layer of sophistication to the anyway elaborate creations. Unfortunately, their café doesn't have much natural light and is far from cosy, so we rather like to get a box of gateaux soirée or danishes covered in icing to take home to the balcony where we neutralise the sweetness with a strong caffeine fix. They also do good croissants and artisanal bread if you like it less sweet. 

http://simonds1898.com

South Red Sea.

The moment you head anywhere South of Hurghada you invariably feel somewhat off the beaten track. Yes, getting here is more difficult than reaching places at the Northern Red Sea coast, unless you fly to Marsa Alam that is. But less people, smaller towns and some of Egypt's best diving spots make this part of the country such an intriguing destination. We like to go to Utopia Beach Club just outside the town of Queseer for its laid-back attitude, super-friendly staff and a great SSI diving centre. The instructors know the reefs here like the backs of their hands and are always keen to help and point out good spots. It's perfect for everyone who has only recently become addicted by diving, as the Utopia house reef starts right at the beach so you won't have to go far for rich marine life and to gain some diving experience. That being said, there's plenty of spots and tours to reefs further afield to also keep seasoned diving aficionados happy for days or even weeks. After a day in, on and by the water, sit back with a cold beer and watch the sun disappear behind the rugged mountain range that frames the setting to dramatic effect.

http://www.utopiabeachclub.com/

Patisserie El Abd.

A long-time Downtown fixture, Patisserie El Abd never fails to impress with their huge array of sweet delights. Apart from the sugar-and-honey soaked oriental pastry section, Al Abd also boast a wide range of wonderful cakes and gateaux from humble cheese cake to elaborate death by chocolate, as well as a special department for croissants and Danishes. Most of the time we are truly overwhelmed with all the different sweets to choose from so we always go for the same, proven treats, such as the rich chocolate croissant or the yummy pizza slices. When on an evening ramble around Downtown make sure to stop by at one of their branches in the area for what is arguably some of the best ice cream in Cairo. The mango version actually tastes like super-creamy, frozen fruit, as does the strawberry one. And the best part is, all the wonderful things on display are really affordable and cost only a fraction of what you would have to fork out at posh bakeries in places like London, Vienna or Paris.