Fort Qaitbey.

While many monuments and historic buildings in Egypt are in various states of disrepair and at best lend themselves as crumbling wallpapers to reenact a supposedly more glorious past, the magnificent Fort Qaitbey in Alexandria defies the trend. Lovingly restored, the 15th century citadel still guards the entrance to the the city's splendid natural harbour. It's all simple, bright limestone formed by experts of the masonry profession into clean lines and countless airy rooms, many of which look out to sea. The fort sits atop the remnants of the ancient lighthouse (of wonders-of-the-world fame) and it is said that is was at least partially constructed from material once part of the lighthouse. The hefty entrance fee of LE50 is definitely worth forking out for one of the most beautiful buildings in the country. Just make sure to bring a good book and picnic supplies so you can spend the better part of your afternoon here, watching ships on their way to destinations elsewhere in the Med, soaking in the fresh ocean air under a blue sky that tries hard to match the water in intensity of colour.

Darb 1718.

In Cairo the hidden gems are even more hidden than in other places. We had heard about this charming pottery place somewhere close to Coptic Cairo from a friend who had started a design project with some of the artisans there. Not even she was able to properly indicate the location, for that's where the orderly city with street names and all fades into chaos. So here is how you get to Darb 1718, the place for all your custom-made pottery needs: Take the metro to Mar Girgis and leave the station as if you wanted to go to the Coptic Cairo area. Once outside, follow the street to the right, meaning the walls of Coptic Cairo will be on your left, until you get to a low gate. Cross the gate and continue with the same street, which bends to the left here. Don't turn right! If you pass an area with small cafés and shops you're on your way. Just when you leave the cafés behind and get the feeling you are in the wrong place is when Darb appears on your right. You will immediately recognize it with all it's greenery and well-maintained buildings. There's also art exhibitions and events sometimes, so check their website frequently. The only thing missing is a small bistro or café to make the most of this quiet place and encourage people to linger for longer.

http://www.darb1718.com

Mena House.

It's a mere half-hour drive from our downtown home but those 30 minutes make all the difference. The ever-busy city is reduced to faded background noise when you wander the immaculate paths in the garden of the Mena House Hotel, palm trees overhead, water features left, right and centre, birds chit-chatting in the foliage. There are few hotels in the world with a more history-laden location than this gem of a retreat for you always have the great pyramids of Giza to form the most magnificent of picture tapestries. When you look up from you scones at high tea, when taking a deep breath on your balcony in the fresh morning air, when strolling around at night, they are always there. You don't actually need to visit them any more. In fact, I believe they are best enjoyed from a certain distance to be fully appreciated. The hotel, garden and pyramids together make for a grand panorama.

Unfortunately, dinner is a bit over-priced and quality below average, but the moreish breakfast goodies of American, English, Egyptian, Lebanese and continental provenance more than make up for this culinary faux pas. The eggs benedict are to die for. And the best is, you can train off the extra calories in the enormous pool afterwards.

http://www.menahousehotel.com

Le Deck.

At the Southern tip of Gezirah Island in the heart of Cairo one of the city's many dreadful hotel towers graces the Nile. Fortunately, the hoteliers at the Sofitel had the sensible idea to turn their part of the shore into a tranquil garden to offset the building. It is here that one finds the Sofitel's lounge-cum-restaurant Le Deck, the perfect spot for relaxed Saturday afternoons. Find yourself a comfy spot in the semi-shade under the canopy and order your first round of cold white. As the afternoon draws on, you might want to try the superb cold mezze. Think hoummos, baba ghanoush and bread fresh from the oven. The mixed platter is enough to share for three and keeps you busy while you soak in the flow of the Nile, the boats out on the water and the distant city noise. Here is the rowing club out for practice, there comes one of the neon-lit party fellucas. It's an ever-changing panorama. You might even spot the occasional bird that wants his share of the mezze. Although there is a minimum charge of LE150 per group, this is far less than at comparable places and sorted with the first bottle of wine anyway...

http://www.sofitel.com/gb/hotel-5307-sofitel-cairo-el-gezirah/index.shtml

Al-Azhar Park.

In a city of grey every patch of green is a soothing treat to the eyes. Unfortunately, trees (let alone parks) are hard to find in the urban sprawl that is Cairo. However, there is one lush island of landscaped hills, tree-lined avenues and well-maintained flower beds that forms a much-needed green lung. Thanks to the Aga Khan Foundation, a massive landfill packed with the debris of centuries towards the East of downtown Cairo was transformed into what is now Al-Azhar Park. Every evening, especially on weekends, Cairene families and couples flock to this oasis of calm and beauty to have picnics on the manicured lawns, enjoy some musical entertainment or promenade the many undulating paths. Some cleverly designed view points allow for stunning vistas of the nearby citadel and the adjacent suburbs, a skyline of apartment blocks, old palazzos and the uncountable minarets of Islamic Cairo. Order a fresh juice and a pizza from one of the restaurants, sit back and relax.

http://www.alazharpark.com/

Cape to Cairo.

Yes, it's been overwhelming and we hated Cairo from the get-go. We didn't want to leave our beloved home in the hills of Klein Windhoek, our cosy Namibian oasis. Plus, then there was the noise, the grime, the pollution, the masses of people and the general decay. That was before we found a charming, airy apartment in downtown, complete with high ceilings, a beautiful stone floor in the hall and a little balcony overlooking the entire neighbourhood. There's the jolly baker around the corner, the old antiques shops in Hoda Shaarawy and Café Groppi, all just a stone's throw away. So maybe we'll start liking Cairo if we only find enough places, businesses and people that rise from the rubble and try to make a difference in the everyday lives of Cairenes. Just come along for the ride.

Oh, and if you'd like to check out Namibia, here's the complete lowdown on our former lives:

http://secretlynamibian.blogspot.com