Wednesday 26 February 2014

Cairo by Boat.



If you feel that Cairo is too dusty and noisy and overcrowded, try to change your perspective and take to the water. If you board one of the water buses that depart in front of Maspero TV tower in Downtown you slowly but surely leave all the buzz behind and crumbling buildings give way to a sometimes semi-urban, sometimes outright bucolic setting with banana plantations, donkeys grazing lazily next to the fields and the odd fisherman trying his luck in the muddy waters of the river Nile. You can for example take the 1.5 hour trip to Al Kanater, the barrages that mark the point where the Nile fans out into the delta. It used to be a favourite weekend trip of Cairenes from all walks of life, especially families with young kids. Judging from the buildings, the areas heyday probably was in the  1960s. Now, it's all rather derelict but the barrages themselves are still as impressive as they must have been when they were built in the early 20th century. Worth the journey! However, the best part about this excursion on the water is the return trip to Cairo in the soft afternoon light. As the boat glides on the glistening water under soaring bridges and the buildings turn into elegant silhouettes, Cairo is at its most calm and of an almost austere beauty.

Monday 17 February 2014

Cairo Kitchen.



There's people who think that it's outright crazy to pay double or triple the price for something that can easily be had at a much lower cost a few block down the street. But then, these are probably people for whom food is all about affordability and taste. For us who also value attentive and friendly service, a homey atmosphere, beautiful design and clean tables, some savvy entrepreneurs invented Cairo Kitchen, the contemporary (and yes, somewhat posh) answer to Cairo's food carts that can be seen around town selling tamia, fool and grilled vegetables. Around town, four outlets welcome hungry guests with their signature mix of white-against-colour interiors and Mondrian-esque facades. Colourful light bulbs add to the quirky look and feel and you can easily pretend you've stepped into a never-ending summertime street festival. Charming! At the food counter you can choose between warm meals from molokheya to koshary and an array of salads, dips and appetizers, all served in rustic enamelware and oh-so delicious. Don't forget to try their great, bottomless juices and cordials! They also do deliveries (of course, this is Cairo!) and cater for smaller and larger functions.

Tired of eating out or ordering in? Thankfully, the guys behind Cairo Kitchen recently also developed a cookery book of the same name, wrapping Egypt's most beloved recipes into a gorgeous layout with pictures so heartbreakingly beautiful in its description of profane daily life in the city you might forget Cairo tends to look like a grey, Soviet-era nightmare way too often.

http://www.cairokitchen.com

Saturday 1 February 2014

Sekem Farm Hotel.




The perfect spot to unwind in a bucolic setting on the fringes of Cairo - and a very, very hidden gem, so no tourists guaranteed - is the simple but charming Sekem Farm Hotel in Belbeis. During your approach you leave behind the chaos of the big city and slowly but surely factories and housing estates give way to orchards, irrigation channels and mud brick walls, and you know it's the weekend. Located on the sprawling Sekem farm, where the Egyptian organic farming company of the same name grows all sorts of fresh produce for the capitals kitchens and restaurants, the hotel boasts cosy and airy rooms on two floors, connected by a vast terrace that runs around the building. Great for morning yoga or sundowner contemplation. It's all bright walls and wood and glass and freedom from kitsch and clutter. Plus, all rooms look out to the fields and lawns and trees and make for a pleasant change of scenery, complete with the sounds of country life to match. Think birds and the wind going through the trees at night. And if that's not enough twittering for you and you can't bear being disconnected for a couple of days, there even is free wifi. However, we suggest you rather go for a stroll amongst the fields and along tree-lined alleys and pop into the small organic store just around the corner to buy some goodies to remind you of this peaceful place back home in the city. Then, sit down for lunch and feast on fresh farm food made from local and seasonal ingredients. Bliss!

http://www.sekem.com/node/176