Black & White Deserts.

One of the most fascinating landscapes of Egypt are the Black and White Deserts on the doorstep of the Bahareya Oasis, approximately five hours by car from Cairo. That's if you are lucky and traffic is not too bad. From extinct volcanoes to weird mushroom-shaped limestone formations, from gravel-covered plains to rolling sand dunes, it's all here, combined to a grand playground of rocks and sand. The best time to visit is either spring or autumn so you avoid the summer heat, yet it won't be freezing cold at night. Build your camp under the stars with a few cushions and thick blankets, light a fire and enjoy the starlit night. Chances are, you will be visited by desert foxes that seem to be quite used to human visitors so they are extremely curious and come very close on the hunt for food. Apart from that there's not much to do here and although most of the area is designated as National Park it's hard to get any information. But then, that gives you more time to just sit for hours on end and contemplate the view, which more often than not is simply spectacular. It's a landscape that has been like this for eons and will most probably outlive mankind. Seldom have we felt so small and insignificant. It's soothing.

Unfortunately, we can't really recommend a tour operator for this destination. From our own experience and what we hear from friends, most are not very professional and you learn next to nothing about the environment and landscape you visit. Sad story. Let us know once you've found a guide you think does a good job!

Ezbet Tunis.

This close to Cairo, just 2 hours by car in good traffic conditions from the capital of an 80+ million country, you would expect a more developed and posh weekend get-away. But then, Egypt is not your average country and time and again manages to surprise. Hence, Ezbet Tunis in the otherwise dreadful and garbage-littered Fayoum oasis is not an upper-class haunt with boutique art galleries and coffee chains but a charming, bucolic hamlet where donkeys graze lazily on the side of the (dirt) road and the occasional sign directs you to a pottery barn or artist shack. The village on the shores of Lake Qaroun (unfortunately separated from the same by the main road) is famous for its beautiful pottery that comes in myriad shapes and designs from mugs depicting scenes from country life to super-sized bowls with floral and abstract ornaments. It's hard to resist the urge to get into a spending spree here, but then Tunis pottery is quite affordable compared to what you would pay for the same objects in Cairo outlets. After an afternoon shop-hopping through the village, we prefer to retreat to the wonderful garden at Palm Shadow guesthouse. This well-maintained property lies smack-bang in the heart of it all and is a great base to explore the area, especially if you decide halfway through dinner that you should've bought that clay pot earlier... They offer great accommodation in fully-furnished apartments sleeping four or a villa for 8. Units come with a well-equipped kitchen and balcony looking out onto the garden and with a view of the lake in the distance.

http://fayoum-palmshadow.blogspot.com

Taboula.

When in Cairo it's become one of our dearest weekend habits to aimlessly wander around Garden City and explore the grand avenues and little alleyways of this most charming of enclaves. After admiring the faded grandeur of the turn-of-the-century mansions and leafy gardens in sweet slumber, we end our outings at Taboula restaurant. While the brand has recently opened more branches in other upper class haunts around town, the Garden City mother ship is by far the most cosy and welcoming outlet. Plus, it's one of the few decent eateries you find in the area these days. It's proximity to the UK and US Embassies might have been a boon back in the days but road closures associated with these missions surely haven't helped much to stimulate business recently. However, the besieged location undoubtedly adds a bit of an adventurous feel for those who come here. Once inside, Taboula is like a warm, pastel-coloured bubble and anything that might happen outside seems far away. From our vantage point in one of the corner nooks furnished with comfy cushions we observe the regulars, a mix of local old money and expat youngsters, while smoking shisha and nipping on our super-sweet lemon juice. We always make sure to order a generous helping of the moreish Hummous Beiruti and a portion of the spicy potatoes. Whenever we feel like a full dinner, additional bowls of Mouhamara, Aleppo Olives and Eggplant Fettah do the trick. Not only do they keep us occupied for hours but they also leave us so full we have to add an evening stroll back home to Downtown to digest all the Lebanese goodness.

http://www.taboula-eg.com/

A Weekend in Gouna.

You can call it fake and disneylandish and posh as much as you like, but you still have to admit that it's one of the most pleasant cities in the country. With it's tree-lined avenues, immaculate green spaces and well-tended public areas El Gouna is a welcome distraction from the usual urban chaos in most other Egyptian towns. Designed and built by the famously rich Sawiris family as their own version of Utopia from the 1990s onwards El Gouna now boasts many new developments as well as a well-established »old« part with a huge number of restaurants, shops and other amenities including two outposts of local and international universities. Though academic fame might be a long time coming, the town definitely has become the preferred Red Sea retreat for Egypt's moneyed elite, which can be seen sporting the latest fashion and flashy limousines on weekends and during holidays. Thanks to it's location by the sea and myriad canals that criss-cross the city water is never far, which adds much to Gouna's appeal. Water sports are a major drawcard during summer if the many diving schools, surf camps and yachts moored at the marina are anything to go by. Come evening, the crowds return home to their villas or to meet friends and family at their favourite local restaurant while the sun disappears in the ocean. And because all is as liberal as it gets in Egypt here, a cold bottle of beer or a glass of cold white are never far. You might be forgiven for thinking you've stepped into your very own Truman Show. Enjoy it while you can.

http://www.elgouna.com

Simonds Bakery & Cafe.

Another one of those wonderful Downtown treasures, Simonds Bakery & Café has been delighting Cairenes with gorgeous sweets for over a century and still does so to great effect on the neighbourhood's coffee tables. Nobody quite manages to pack as many calories into so small a space as Simonds does with their slices of cake that come in all chocolatey hues from white to dark bordering on pitch black. Each piece is literally crowned with a cherry on top, which sometimes takes the form of a walnut or cluster of gold, adding another layer of sophistication to the anyway elaborate creations. Unfortunately, their café doesn't have much natural light and is far from cosy, so we rather like to get a box of gateaux soirée or danishes covered in icing to take home to the balcony where we neutralise the sweetness with a strong caffeine fix. They also do good croissants and artisanal bread if you like it less sweet. 

http://simonds1898.com

South Red Sea.

The moment you head anywhere South of Hurghada you invariably feel somewhat off the beaten track. Yes, getting here is more difficult than reaching places at the Northern Red Sea coast, unless you fly to Marsa Alam that is. But less people, smaller towns and some of Egypt's best diving spots make this part of the country such an intriguing destination. We like to go to Utopia Beach Club just outside the town of Queseer for its laid-back attitude, super-friendly staff and a great SSI diving centre. The instructors know the reefs here like the backs of their hands and are always keen to help and point out good spots. It's perfect for everyone who has only recently become addicted by diving, as the Utopia house reef starts right at the beach so you won't have to go far for rich marine life and to gain some diving experience. That being said, there's plenty of spots and tours to reefs further afield to also keep seasoned diving aficionados happy for days or even weeks. After a day in, on and by the water, sit back with a cold beer and watch the sun disappear behind the rugged mountain range that frames the setting to dramatic effect.

http://www.utopiabeachclub.com/

Patisserie El Abd.

A long-time Downtown fixture, Patisserie El Abd never fails to impress with their huge array of sweet delights. Apart from the sugar-and-honey soaked oriental pastry section, Al Abd also boast a wide range of wonderful cakes and gateaux from humble cheese cake to elaborate death by chocolate, as well as a special department for croissants and Danishes. Most of the time we are truly overwhelmed with all the different sweets to choose from so we always go for the same, proven treats, such as the rich chocolate croissant or the yummy pizza slices. When on an evening ramble around Downtown make sure to stop by at one of their branches in the area for what is arguably some of the best ice cream in Cairo. The mango version actually tastes like super-creamy, frozen fruit, as does the strawberry one. And the best part is, all the wonderful things on display are really affordable and cost only a fraction of what you would have to fork out at posh bakeries in places like London, Vienna or Paris.

The Luxor Hilton.

It doesn't happen often that we find ourselves in a hotel or lodge where we fail to identify a number of design errors, service inadequacies or similar downsides the moment we enter the place. At the Luxor Hilton, however, even at second and third glance everything is and remains impeccable. From the wonderful contemporary arabesque ornaments that adorn walls and doors to the jaw-dropping pool area with its view over to the orchards and mountains of the West Bank, from the delicious food to the many chill-out nooks and resting spots, this is as close as it gets to informal luxury. When you return from a visit to one of the areas many pharaonic sights, temples and necropoles out in the sweltering desert heat, the sleek, modern architecture and leafy gardens with many a water feature are a soothing treat. Find a spot by the Nile or pool, order a fresh lemon juice and take in the splendour of the place. It's within walking distance to Karnak temple and the Luxor Museum and the super-friendly staff will happily give you directions - or organise transport if you are not inclined to attempt a small hike. Everyone here from gardeners to bell captain has at least basic command of English, which we found quite impressive and  would like to think it's testimony to a business operation that takes its employees and their training seriously. What can we say, it's perfect.

http://www3.hilton.com/en/hotels/egypt/hilton-luxor-resort-and-spa-LUXHITW/index.html

High Tea at the Cataract.

If you can't (or don't want to) afford to stay at the magnificent Old Cataract Hotel in Aswan but still want to enjoy a slice of its grand splendour, reserve the afternoon and come for high tea instead. It's served on their famous veranda overlooking the Nile so you get to enjoy one of the highlights of this very special place at a fraction of the cost of what you would have to fork out for a room. Plus, there's delicious tea and tasty treats galore to go with the view. Watch the feluccas sail by before a backdrop of glistening water, lush greenery and the desert in the not-too-far distance while you munch on cucumber sandwiches and scones with clotted cream. And when the evening arrives with a fresh breeze that mingles with the clinking of fine china and silver cutlery and the background music, you might as well stay for a couple of drinks or even dinner before you head down to your modest abode in one of the less ritzy establishments in town. Sweet dreams.

http://www.sofitel.com/gb/hotel-1666-sofitel-legend-old-cataract-aswan/index.shtml

Al Tarfa Desert Sanctuary.

If secret gardens to stroll around and lounging in shaded, breezy spots with a cold drink are your thing, we suggest a trip to Al Tarfa in the beautiful Dakhla Oasis asap. At the fringes of this lush, bucolic island in the dessert, with donkey carts rumbling past on sandy tracks and cows grazing in the fields, this special lodge combines rustic country life with the small luxurious of an up-market eco retreat. From breakfast by the pool to lunch in the garden next to a gurgling stream to dinner under the stars, it's the meals that structure your day here rather than your watch. In between, the friendly and helpful but pleasantly unobtrusive team will arrange trips for you to some of the magnificent sights in the area, such as the amazing old town of Al Qasr with its intricate labyrinth of mud-brick houses. Our favourite spot, however, is the extremely comfy couch under a pair of lanterns from which the view goes out towards the caramel-coloured mountains in the distance, which provide a stark contrast to the lush greenery of the oasis below.

http://altarfa.net

Gianaclis Winery Tour.

It took us a while to find the right contact and manage to arrange for a tour, but manage we did and we're glad we gave it the required amount of extra effort. A winery tour to Gianaclis, one of only two estates in Egypt, is definitely one of the best day trips from Cairo you can possibly imagine. Early in the morning at 8am we were picked up by a luxurious mini-bus in Zamalek and ferried off to somewhere so deep in the Nile delta we probably wouldn't find the way ourselves if we tried to. Behind high and nondescript walls we were suddenly greeted by a state-of-the-art wine production facility, a charming tasting room with breezy outside terrace, and winemaker Sebastien and his team who welcomed us with a broad smile and a small breakfast to start the day. We then went on to a tour of the production process including a vast array of gleaming stainless steel containers as well as their special cellar with French oak barrels for special edition wines. Afterwards, the tasting started with a sip of pink bubbly for an aperitif and continued with a light white to accompany a selection of fresh salads. The BBQ delicacies to follow were matched by two different red wines, including their Ayam Special Edition in generous amounts. Accordingly, after four hours of tour and tasting we were all merrily exhausted from all the good wine and food and not few of us fell asleep almost instantaneously on the way back to Cairo.

To book your tour, inquire with Carmen at carmen.anis[at]alahrambeverages.com

http://gianacliswines.com

TBS - The Bakery Shop.

Bread-and-patisserie start-up The Bakery Shop reached nationwide acclaim for their »Got Ink?« campaign to promote participation in Egypt's parliamentary elections, during which they offered free products for everyone who could prove they voted as indicated by their inked index finger. In normal life the folks at TBS, as their artisan bakery is known, simply produce Egypt's best croissants that come in a large variety from plain to almond but always with plenty of greasy goodness. They also do wonderful sandwiches, donuts and fancy bread, but for us it's really all about the flaky French indulgence they are so famous for, though according to TBS the croissant is not of French provenance at all. Be it as it may, make sure you don't miss out on the their sweet (and savoury) treats whenever you happen to be near one of the TBS branches, of which we definitely want more in future, also outside the expected upper class haunts of Zamalek and Maadi. We'll start a campaign for a downtown outlet soon!

http://www.tbsfresh.com

Left Bank.

It shares the same great location with its sister establishment Sequoia around the corner, but rates are much more affordable, there is no stupid minimum charge and the whole atmosphere is much less pretentious. For us that's enough reason to pop in to Left Bank for a quick coffee and croissant or a light dinner whenever we are in the neighbourhood. They have great pizzas and salads and moreish desserts to end a good meal. Their tiramisu is especially divine. Add to this the eclectic mix of chandeliers made from old enamel bowls and salt shakers, good music playing in the background and a dash of mid-century Scandinavian design and you know why this is Zamalek's hipster hangout spot number one. It's part bohemian coffee house, part design hotel lobby and that makes it the perfect spot for some late afternoon people watching. If only the temperatures were less arctic...

www.facebook.com/leftbankonline

Diwan Bookstore.

How would we survive without the wonderful bookstore chain Diwan! At several locations around Cairo and Egypt, Diwan provides a sanctuary of peace and quiet amidst all the hustle and bustle. It's a definite fixture in our weekend excursions around Zamalek and we always find a good read or beautiful cookery book and of course the latest issue of the Guardian Weekly. It's mostly Arabic and English titles but Diwan also has a decent French section and the occasional German read. Plus, the stationery department is great if you need a last-minute gift (think sketch books, cards, folders and coasters with Arabesque patterns) when invited for dinner around the corner. They also serve good coffee, cake and some snacks in case you don't feel like returning to the real world just yet.

www.diwanegypt.com

Upper Egypt by Sleeper Train.

What better way to start a weekend get-away with a leisurely ride on the train rather than a rush-hour tour by car? Take the metro to Giza station, walk a few metres to the platform for long-distance trains and wait for the evening service to Aswan. We were shocked at first about the condition of trains passing through the station and never sure which one would be ours. Fortunately, the rail staff were super friendly and prevented us from boarding one of the overcrowded trains, which many travellers found their way into trough the window. The actual sleeper train, however, was rather comfy and almost on time. We hoisted our luggage into our private compartment, closed the door and felt blissfully insulated from the brouhaha outside. After a dinner of carbohydrates of different sorts (lentils, rice, potatoes... well, you might want to bring your own) we soon fell asleep in beds equipped with fresh linen and fluffy pillows. Then, after a good night's rest, came the best part of the journey: walking up in the morning to a panorama of green fields dotted with donkeys and birds, palm trees full of dates and the occasional village to match. We immediately knew we were in for some peace and quiet and relaxation far from the hustle and bustle of Cairo.

Tickets are US$60 per person one way (incl. dinner and breakfast) can be booked online at

http://e7gezly.com/sleepingtrains/

AUC Downtown Campus & Bookstore.

Amidst all the faded glamour and crumbling facades in its neighbourhood the American University's downtown campus has long been a thriving beacon of beauty and excellence. That, however, was before the headquarters of the Middle East's premier educational institution were moved to new, shiny premises in New Cairo. Fortunately, the old campus with its moorish arches and mashrabiya panels is still open to the public and remains an oasis of green and calm in central Cairo, literally on the doorstep of the urban blight that is Tahrir Square. Come here on a Saturday morning for a leisurely stroll through the lush gardens and deserted hallways, take a peek at the splendid Oriental Hall and marvel at the many intricate details of this architectural masterpiece. Then, head to the AUC bookstore at the back of the building and browse to your heart's content through thousands of books spanning several languages and sections. It's easily one of the best and well-stocked bookstores in the country. Plus, the sleek wood and glass interior gives it a refreshing feel that is in stark contrast to the ornate decor of the rest of the campus. Let's hope it will still be open for a while. Entrance from Mohammed Mahmoud.

http://www.aucpress.com/t-aucbookstores.aspx

Windsor Hotel Bar.

There's few places around Cairo that capture the charms of a bygone, cosmopolitan era in such a melancholic and authentic fashion like the bar at the Windsor Hotel. Tucked away in unassuming Alfi Bey St off the main 26 July thoroughfare, the Windsor is a true gem among the otherwise most unauthentically refurbished colonial-era hotels in the Egyptian capital (if they still exist in the first place). You might be forgiven for thinking the entire place has closed for business year ago and is by now completely defunct but nobody cared to close the door. Indeed, the few members of staff occupying their posts at various spots around the premises seem as lost as the odd tourist that finds his way into the Windsor. Once you have settled for a cosy armchair of your choice in the 1st-floor bar, however, lights flicker on, a distant radio magically jumps to live and a cold Stella comes your way almost instantaneously as if you have crossed a motion detector hidden somewhere in one of the antlers adorning the walls. Bring a few friends or a good book and enjoy some blue-hour bliss after a hard day's work. This is downtown Cairo at its best.

http://www.windsorcairo.com/

Alexandria Cecil.

Granted, it's all faded grandeur and the flamboyant characters of Durrell's Alexandria Quartet have long checked out of this most famous of Alexandria hotels, but it still makes for a splendid backdrop to a romantic weekend retreat. The only thing ancient here is probably the elevator with its wrought iron grille, complete with lift boy (well, that one has aged a bit, too). Make sure you get a sea-facing room on one of the upper floors (i.e. far from traffic on the Corniche below), move a cosy armchair as close to the open window as possible and enjoy the sweeping vistas over to the fort and out to the sea. The Cecil is at its best in the morning when guests flock to the airy ground-level restaurant Le Jardin for an extended breakfast of croissants, pastry and fresh fruit. This is French territory after all. The only thing completely out of place is the Chinese restaurant, which occupies the rooftop terrace, potentially the jewel in the crown for a hotel with such a marvellous location. Alas, not only is the view from the restaurant obscured by red plastic sheeting but both the interior design and the food are rather sub-standard, too. So you better head out for dinner and dream of the heavenly breakfast treats instead.

http://www.sofitel.com/gb/hotel-1726-sofitel-cecil-alexandria/index.shtml

Auberge du Lac.

It's not the most stunning of locations and it's not the most amazing place to stay in Egypt, but the Helnan Auberge Fayoum, aka the Auberge du Lac, makes for a pleasant weekend retreat if you want to get out of the big city. Especially if you want to escape the expat crowd for a change, the Auberge is a great spot, as it's mostly frequented by affluent Egyptian families lounging around the huge pool. So, do it like the locals do, grab a beach towel, find a stretcher by the pool and go for a dip. Then, have a cold drink, lean back and enjoy the lake view with a good book. You could also attempt to have a swim in the vast lake itself but we weren't able to establish whether or not that is a good idea. If you are not of the adventurous kind, just soak in the fresh breeze and savour the beautiful sight of waves crashing against the quay wall and dying in a big splash. Food is basic but honest Egyptian and international fare and very affordable, as are the drinks. It's all very unpretentious but with a hint of past grandeur. After all, this once was the hunting lodge of king Farouk and deer-themed chandeliers still grace the entrance hall and lounge.

http://www.helnan.com/HelnanAubergeHotel=_6=-110.htm

Bibliotheca Alexandrina.

Amidst all the ancient monuments and desert destinations in Egypt the ultra-modern library of Alexandria makes for a refreshing change of scenery. It is THE perfect spot to enjoy peace and calm in Egypt's second city. It's been designed to resemble the rising sun that glides across the sea, radiating the light of knowledge through the world. Fitting the theme, it's covered in a hull of glass and steel glistening in the sun. On the insight, a gigantic wall of enormous concrete slabs together with dozens of columns that resemble lotus flowers rise high into the sky and support the prominent glass facade. In here it's all dark, polished floors, wooden shelves and muted light. While outside on the corniche traffic thunders past with the usual relentless ferocity, one feels completely insulated form the real world in the monastery-like, almost sacral silence. The huge library hall is divided into myriad sections across huge balconies that cascade down below sea level, so just grab a book, pick your spot of choice and drift away. There's even wireless Internet and the cartography section on the lowest level is great for armchair travelling. What's your next destination?

http://www.bibalex.org/Home/Default_EN.aspx

First Cataract by Boat.

On a weekend escape from Cairo, Upper Egypt seems like a bucolic idyll of sorts. Although Aswan proper is for the most part your usual Egyptian town, you feel like in a completely different country once you've set sails for the West bank and the islands and islets around the First Cataract. Organise yourself a boat (motorized, feluccas won't get you anywhere near the cataract) from any of the small cruise businesses in town and just moments after departure you glide past reed-fringed shorelines, towering rocks and even the occasional beach. It's a bit like Stockholm on the Nile, minus the hipsters. There's plenty of bird life to be spotted, so bring your binoculars. Even if you are not a seasoned bird watcher or even twitcher, you'll be amazed about the abundance of different types of airborne creatures that hover above or hide in the undergrowth. Come evening, make sure you have a mint tea boiling and a shisha bubbling to get the most out of this chill-out paradise. While the sun sets and the city puts on its blinking evening attire, you wish you could just fall asleep and be carried away through the night.

Adrere Amellal.

We did the grave mistake to choose Adrere Amellal, Egypts first and foremost eco-lodge, as one of our first destinations. After a visit to this splendid, peaceful place in the remote Siwa oasis, everything else is but a sad reminder of how mass tourism and bad taste have tormented Egypt. Built entirely from local material, like salt bricks held together with mud, the lodge is heartbreakingly simple, yet luxurious in its labyrinthine layout and unmatched attention to detail. You get up in the morning to a moreish breakfast of plain omelette, fresh bread and divine olive jam, served on a covered patio overlooking the adjacent salt lake. Afterwards you depart for an excursion to Siwa town. This, unfortunately, is in a state of neglect, which makes the lodge appear like an improved (disneylandish?) version of the ancient settlement. Back at the lodge, a three-course lunch in the shade of a palm grove awaits with vegetarian dishes prepared with fresh ingredients from the lodge garden. Understandably, you will only reluctantly make your way to the meeting point for an afternoon excursion to the sea of towering dunes across the lake. Itineraries here are flexible, so you might as well stay, go for a dip in the sparkling, natural pool and while the afternoon away on a daybed. By nightfall, guests gather at one of the many dining spots scattered around the premises, only guided by lanterns and candles, to enjoy what is arguably the best food in Egypt, washed down with plenty of good Egyptian red wine. Think stuffed zucchini flowers, chicken in pomegranate sauce and date pudding for dessert...

http://adrereamellal.net/aplaceoutoftime.html

Lehnert & Landrock.

One of the advantages and indeed charms of downtown Cairo is the fact that you find century-old family businesses here that have long disappeared elsewhere. One such household name in the Egyptian art and retail scene is Lehnert & Landrock, the famous photography and publishing house in Sherif St, smack-bang in the heart of the city. It's on the ground floor of an unassuming building so you might be forgiven for haven mistaken it for a random bookstore. And while the selection of heavy art tomes and coffee table books in the front store seems a bit outdated, the real treasure is the back store with dozens of reprints of Lehnert's long-forgotten images of early 20th-century Egypt, which were only rediscovered in the 1980s. His oeuvre also includes beautiful photographs, especially portraits and rural scenes, from Tunisia and Algeria. Printed in either black-and-white or sepia and presented in simple wooden frames, these stills are a must-have for any Cairo apartment and go a long way to counter the awful furniture that your landlord in all likelihood has burdened you with.

http://lehnertandlandrock.net/

Kitchener's Island.

It's not Kirstenbosch and it's not Kew but the small botanical garden on Kitchener's Island is surely one of the most tranquil and well-maintained parks in all of Egypt. The approach by boat of felucca from the Aswan mainland adds much to the charm of this hidden treasure, the view of which is for the most part blocked by the much bigger Elephantine Island and its horrendous hotel tower. The botanical garden (and research centre) with its hundreds of exotic trees and shrubs from all over the world occupies the entire island and for the small amount of LE10 you can spend an entire day here, exploring the many palm-fringed paths, enjoying the sweeping views and shaded picnic areas. What once belonged to the infamous Lord Kitchener, who equipped the gardens with plants from places along his Empire campaign trail from the Cape to India, now serves as a much-loved weekend retreat for Aswan locals and tourists alike. Avoid the Southern tip of the island, though, as this is where hordes of hawkers want to sell you their wares.

Fort Qaitbey.

While many monuments and historic buildings in Egypt are in various states of disrepair and at best lend themselves as crumbling wallpapers to reenact a supposedly more glorious past, the magnificent Fort Qaitbey in Alexandria defies the trend. Lovingly restored, the 15th century citadel still guards the entrance to the the city's splendid natural harbour. It's all simple, bright limestone formed by experts of the masonry profession into clean lines and countless airy rooms, many of which look out to sea. The fort sits atop the remnants of the ancient lighthouse (of wonders-of-the-world fame) and it is said that is was at least partially constructed from material once part of the lighthouse. The hefty entrance fee of LE50 is definitely worth forking out for one of the most beautiful buildings in the country. Just make sure to bring a good book and picnic supplies so you can spend the better part of your afternoon here, watching ships on their way to destinations elsewhere in the Med, soaking in the fresh ocean air under a blue sky that tries hard to match the water in intensity of colour.

Darb 1718.

In Cairo the hidden gems are even more hidden than in other places. We had heard about this charming pottery place somewhere close to Coptic Cairo from a friend who had started a design project with some of the artisans there. Not even she was able to properly indicate the location, for that's where the orderly city with street names and all fades into chaos. So here is how you get to Darb 1718, the place for all your custom-made pottery needs: Take the metro to Mar Girgis and leave the station as if you wanted to go to the Coptic Cairo area. Once outside, follow the street to the right, meaning the walls of Coptic Cairo will be on your left, until you get to a low gate. Cross the gate and continue with the same street, which bends to the left here. Don't turn right! If you pass an area with small cafés and shops you're on your way. Just when you leave the cafés behind and get the feeling you are in the wrong place is when Darb appears on your right. You will immediately recognize it with all it's greenery and well-maintained buildings. There's also art exhibitions and events sometimes, so check their website frequently. The only thing missing is a small bistro or café to make the most of this quiet place and encourage people to linger for longer.

http://www.darb1718.com

Mena House.

It's a mere half-hour drive from our downtown home but those 30 minutes make all the difference. The ever-busy city is reduced to faded background noise when you wander the immaculate paths in the garden of the Mena House Hotel, palm trees overhead, water features left, right and centre, birds chit-chatting in the foliage. There are few hotels in the world with a more history-laden location than this gem of a retreat for you always have the great pyramids of Giza to form the most magnificent of picture tapestries. When you look up from you scones at high tea, when taking a deep breath on your balcony in the fresh morning air, when strolling around at night, they are always there. You don't actually need to visit them any more. In fact, I believe they are best enjoyed from a certain distance to be fully appreciated. The hotel, garden and pyramids together make for a grand panorama.

Unfortunately, dinner is a bit over-priced and quality below average, but the moreish breakfast goodies of American, English, Egyptian, Lebanese and continental provenance more than make up for this culinary faux pas. The eggs benedict are to die for. And the best is, you can train off the extra calories in the enormous pool afterwards.

http://www.menahousehotel.com

Le Deck.

At the Southern tip of Gezirah Island in the heart of Cairo one of the city's many dreadful hotel towers graces the Nile. Fortunately, the hoteliers at the Sofitel had the sensible idea to turn their part of the shore into a tranquil garden to offset the building. It is here that one finds the Sofitel's lounge-cum-restaurant Le Deck, the perfect spot for relaxed Saturday afternoons. Find yourself a comfy spot in the semi-shade under the canopy and order your first round of cold white. As the afternoon draws on, you might want to try the superb cold mezze. Think hoummos, baba ghanoush and bread fresh from the oven. The mixed platter is enough to share for three and keeps you busy while you soak in the flow of the Nile, the boats out on the water and the distant city noise. Here is the rowing club out for practice, there comes one of the neon-lit party fellucas. It's an ever-changing panorama. You might even spot the occasional bird that wants his share of the mezze. Although there is a minimum charge of LE150 per group, this is far less than at comparable places and sorted with the first bottle of wine anyway...

http://www.sofitel.com/gb/hotel-5307-sofitel-cairo-el-gezirah/index.shtml

Al-Azhar Park.

In a city of grey every patch of green is a soothing treat to the eyes. Unfortunately, trees (let alone parks) are hard to find in the urban sprawl that is Cairo. However, there is one lush island of landscaped hills, tree-lined avenues and well-maintained flower beds that forms a much-needed green lung. Thanks to the Aga Khan Foundation, a massive landfill packed with the debris of centuries towards the East of downtown Cairo was transformed into what is now Al-Azhar Park. Every evening, especially on weekends, Cairene families and couples flock to this oasis of calm and beauty to have picnics on the manicured lawns, enjoy some musical entertainment or promenade the many undulating paths. Some cleverly designed view points allow for stunning vistas of the nearby citadel and the adjacent suburbs, a skyline of apartment blocks, old palazzos and the uncountable minarets of Islamic Cairo. Order a fresh juice and a pizza from one of the restaurants, sit back and relax.

http://www.alazharpark.com/

Cape to Cairo.

Yes, it's been overwhelming and we hated Cairo from the get-go. We didn't want to leave our beloved home in the hills of Klein Windhoek, our cosy Namibian oasis. Plus, then there was the noise, the grime, the pollution, the masses of people and the general decay. That was before we found a charming, airy apartment in downtown, complete with high ceilings, a beautiful stone floor in the hall and a little balcony overlooking the entire neighbourhood. There's the jolly baker around the corner, the old antiques shops in Hoda Shaarawy and Café Groppi, all just a stone's throw away. So maybe we'll start liking Cairo if we only find enough places, businesses and people that rise from the rubble and try to make a difference in the everyday lives of Cairenes. Just come along for the ride.

Oh, and if you'd like to check out Namibia, here's the complete lowdown on our former lives:

http://secretlynamibian.blogspot.com