We did the grave mistake to choose Adrere Amellal, Egypts first and foremost eco-lodge, as one of our first destinations. After a visit to this splendid, peaceful place in the remote Siwa oasis, everything else is but a sad reminder of how mass tourism and bad taste have tormented Egypt. Built entirely from local material, like salt bricks held together with mud, the lodge is heartbreakingly simple, yet luxurious in its labyrinthine layout and unmatched attention to detail. You get up in the morning to a moreish breakfast of plain omelette, fresh bread and divine olive jam, served on a covered patio overlooking the adjacent salt lake. Afterwards you depart for an excursion to Siwa town. This, unfortunately, is in a state of neglect, which makes the lodge appear like an improved (disneylandish?) version of the ancient settlement. Back at the lodge, a three-course lunch in the shade of a palm grove awaits with vegetarian dishes prepared with fresh ingredients from the lodge garden. Understandably, you will only reluctantly make your way to the meeting point for an afternoon excursion to the sea of towering dunes across the lake. Itineraries here are flexible, so you might as well stay, go for a dip in the sparkling, natural pool and while the afternoon away on a daybed. By nightfall, guests gather at one of the many dining spots scattered around the premises, only guided by lanterns and candles, to enjoy what is arguably the best food in Egypt, washed down with plenty of good Egyptian red wine. Think stuffed zucchini flowers, chicken in pomegranate sauce and date pudding for dessert...
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