Black & White Deserts.

One of the most fascinating landscapes of Egypt are the Black and White Deserts on the doorstep of the Bahareya Oasis, approximately five hours by car from Cairo. That's if you are lucky and traffic is not too bad. From extinct volcanoes to weird mushroom-shaped limestone formations, from gravel-covered plains to rolling sand dunes, it's all here, combined to a grand playground of rocks and sand. The best time to visit is either spring or autumn so you avoid the summer heat, yet it won't be freezing cold at night. Build your camp under the stars with a few cushions and thick blankets, light a fire and enjoy the starlit night. Chances are, you will be visited by desert foxes that seem to be quite used to human visitors so they are extremely curious and come very close on the hunt for food. Apart from that there's not much to do here and although most of the area is designated as National Park it's hard to get any information. But then, that gives you more time to just sit for hours on end and contemplate the view, which more often than not is simply spectacular. It's a landscape that has been like this for eons and will most probably outlive mankind. Seldom have we felt so small and insignificant. It's soothing.

Unfortunately, we can't really recommend a tour operator for this destination. From our own experience and what we hear from friends, most are not very professional and you learn next to nothing about the environment and landscape you visit. Sad story. Let us know once you've found a guide you think does a good job!

Ezbet Tunis.

This close to Cairo, just 2 hours by car in good traffic conditions from the capital of an 80+ million country, you would expect a more developed and posh weekend get-away. But then, Egypt is not your average country and time and again manages to surprise. Hence, Ezbet Tunis in the otherwise dreadful and garbage-littered Fayoum oasis is not an upper-class haunt with boutique art galleries and coffee chains but a charming, bucolic hamlet where donkeys graze lazily on the side of the (dirt) road and the occasional sign directs you to a pottery barn or artist shack. The village on the shores of Lake Qaroun (unfortunately separated from the same by the main road) is famous for its beautiful pottery that comes in myriad shapes and designs from mugs depicting scenes from country life to super-sized bowls with floral and abstract ornaments. It's hard to resist the urge to get into a spending spree here, but then Tunis pottery is quite affordable compared to what you would pay for the same objects in Cairo outlets. After an afternoon shop-hopping through the village, we prefer to retreat to the wonderful garden at Palm Shadow guesthouse. This well-maintained property lies smack-bang in the heart of it all and is a great base to explore the area, especially if you decide halfway through dinner that you should've bought that clay pot earlier... They offer great accommodation in fully-furnished apartments sleeping four or a villa for 8. Units come with a well-equipped kitchen and balcony looking out onto the garden and with a view of the lake in the distance.

http://fayoum-palmshadow.blogspot.com

Taboula.

When in Cairo it's become one of our dearest weekend habits to aimlessly wander around Garden City and explore the grand avenues and little alleyways of this most charming of enclaves. After admiring the faded grandeur of the turn-of-the-century mansions and leafy gardens in sweet slumber, we end our outings at Taboula restaurant. While the brand has recently opened more branches in other upper class haunts around town, the Garden City mother ship is by far the most cosy and welcoming outlet. Plus, it's one of the few decent eateries you find in the area these days. It's proximity to the UK and US Embassies might have been a boon back in the days but road closures associated with these missions surely haven't helped much to stimulate business recently. However, the besieged location undoubtedly adds a bit of an adventurous feel for those who come here. Once inside, Taboula is like a warm, pastel-coloured bubble and anything that might happen outside seems far away. From our vantage point in one of the corner nooks furnished with comfy cushions we observe the regulars, a mix of local old money and expat youngsters, while smoking shisha and nipping on our super-sweet lemon juice. We always make sure to order a generous helping of the moreish Hummous Beiruti and a portion of the spicy potatoes. Whenever we feel like a full dinner, additional bowls of Mouhamara, Aleppo Olives and Eggplant Fettah do the trick. Not only do they keep us occupied for hours but they also leave us so full we have to add an evening stroll back home to Downtown to digest all the Lebanese goodness.

http://www.taboula-eg.com/